Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Monday, March 24, 2008
Ball Python - Basic Breeding Sheet
Ball Python - Basic Breeding Sheet
This article includes just basic principles of ball python breeding, these methods are not the only way to successfully breed ball pythons but they are what work for us.
Breeding Size
Generally, we like our male ball pythons to be at least 600 grams and our females to be at least 1400 grams before attempting to breed them. Female ball pythons reach sexual maturity between 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 years old; males can start producing sperm within the first year. I will say however it is not wise breed a female that is skinny or not in good health. The process of breeding to egg laying is toll taking physically and can cause serious harm or death to an unhealthy or underweight female.
Cycling
Early to mid October we stop feeding our breeder males and females, after about two weeks without food we start to drop the night time temps to an ambient temperature in the mid 70s, with a hot spot in the mid to upper 80s and adjust our lighting to a 14 hour night time cycle.
Introduction
After two weeks into the temperature/light cycle change, we begin to introduce our breeder males to the female enclosure, this varies from breeder to breeder but it works for us. We will remove the male after three days for a three day rest period regardless if copulation was observed.
Ovulation
We continue to pair our breeders up until we notice the female ovulate. In most cases the female would have gone into a pre-ovulation shed. Ovulation usually looks like a swollen snake that has just had a huge meal.
Pre-Lay Shed
After ovulation the female will go into a pre-lay shed.
Gravid Behavior
Gravid females will sometimes lay inverted and they can sometimes be seen wrapping around their water dish.
Egg Laying
Approximately 27-35 days after the pre-lay shed, the female will lay her eggs. Our females have always laid their eggs in the early morning hours. Egg laying can take a few hours to complete; we try to keep all disturbances to a minimum during egg laying.
Once the eggs are laid, we then remove the female, then remove the eggs. We place the eggs into a plastic container to artificially incubate. You can use a flashlight to "candle" an egg to look for veins inside the egg. An egg without veins is infertile and will probably turn yellow and rot. Once the eggs are in the incubator, we thoroughly wash the female and her tub removing the egg scent and place the female back into the rack. We try and give the female two days of recovery time before offering food.
Incubation
We incubate our eggs between 87-89 degrees at about 80%-90% humidity. We prefer the no substrate method to incubate our eggs. During the last couple weeks of incubation the eggs will dimple and cave in.
Hatching Eggs
Eggs usually hatch around 52-60 days of incubation. When babies start pipping we move them into a hatch box which is a slightly larger container with moist paper towels and extra ventilation holes. They remain in this container until they leave the egg completely. At that time we rinse them off and place them into a tub with moist paper towels, many hiding places and a shallow fresh water dish.
This article includes just basic principles of ball python breeding, these methods are not the only way to successfully breed ball pythons but they are what work for us.
Breeding Size
Generally, we like our male ball pythons to be at least 600 grams and our females to be at least 1400 grams before attempting to breed them. Female ball pythons reach sexual maturity between 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 years old; males can start producing sperm within the first year. I will say however it is not wise breed a female that is skinny or not in good health. The process of breeding to egg laying is toll taking physically and can cause serious harm or death to an unhealthy or underweight female.
Cycling
Early to mid October we stop feeding our breeder males and females, after about two weeks without food we start to drop the night time temps to an ambient temperature in the mid 70s, with a hot spot in the mid to upper 80s and adjust our lighting to a 14 hour night time cycle.
Introduction
After two weeks into the temperature/light cycle change, we begin to introduce our breeder males to the female enclosure, this varies from breeder to breeder but it works for us. We will remove the male after three days for a three day rest period regardless if copulation was observed.
Ovulation
We continue to pair our breeders up until we notice the female ovulate. In most cases the female would have gone into a pre-ovulation shed. Ovulation usually looks like a swollen snake that has just had a huge meal.
Pre-Lay Shed
After ovulation the female will go into a pre-lay shed.
Gravid Behavior
Gravid females will sometimes lay inverted and they can sometimes be seen wrapping around their water dish.
Egg Laying
Approximately 27-35 days after the pre-lay shed, the female will lay her eggs. Our females have always laid their eggs in the early morning hours. Egg laying can take a few hours to complete; we try to keep all disturbances to a minimum during egg laying.
Once the eggs are laid, we then remove the female, then remove the eggs. We place the eggs into a plastic container to artificially incubate. You can use a flashlight to "candle" an egg to look for veins inside the egg. An egg without veins is infertile and will probably turn yellow and rot. Once the eggs are in the incubator, we thoroughly wash the female and her tub removing the egg scent and place the female back into the rack. We try and give the female two days of recovery time before offering food.
Incubation
We incubate our eggs between 87-89 degrees at about 80%-90% humidity. We prefer the no substrate method to incubate our eggs. During the last couple weeks of incubation the eggs will dimple and cave in.
Hatching Eggs
Eggs usually hatch around 52-60 days of incubation. When babies start pipping we move them into a hatch box which is a slightly larger container with moist paper towels and extra ventilation holes. They remain in this container until they leave the egg completely. At that time we rinse them off and place them into a tub with moist paper towels, many hiding places and a shallow fresh water dish.
Ball Pythons - Basic Care Sheet
Ball Pythons - Basic Care Sheet
Housing: Ball Pythons do not need a large enclosure, they are not very active snakes. We recommend a 10-20 gallon tank (tub) for smaller juvenile snakes and a 30 gallon tank (tub) for adults. Ball Pythons are very good escape artist so a secure lid is required.
Substrate: We recommend using newspaper, aspen, or cypress mulch. You can use/buy other bedding that will work for Ball Pythons but we have found that these work best for us. Do not use cedar. Cedar oils are toxic to Ball Pythons and can lead to deadly respiratory infections.
Furnishings: We recommend supplying some sort of hide box or secure area for your Ball Python to hide. You can buy plastic hide boxes online or use a small pot with an access hole. Ball Pythons also need a water dish, we recommend one that is big enough to fit their entire body into so they can soak during shed cycles. We change our water out with clean water weekly.
Temperature: 80 - 85 F (27 - 29 C) during the day, with a basking spot of around 90 F (32 C). Night time temperatures can fall to around 75 F (23 -24 C) as long as an area of 80 F is maintained. An under the tank heating pad designed for reptiles works well for providing the cage heat, with an incandescent bulb or ceramic heating element used to provide the basking temperatures. Never use hot rocks, and the bulb or heat element should be placed or screened off to prevent contact with the snake or burns may result.
Lighting: Ball Pythons are nocturnal, so have no special lighting requirements.
Feeding: Ball pythons can be fed exclusively mice or small to medium sized rats, and only need to be fed every week or two. Young snakes should be fed fuzzy mice every 5-7 days, older snakes should be fed increasingly larger prey and can go a longer without food. Ball Pythons can be picky eaters, it is not uncommon for Ball Pythons to go "off feed" for the winter time and refuse to eat. If this happens, don't panic and continue to try every week or so until they feed again.
View this information here online..
http://www.morphcapital.com/BP_Care.asp
Housing: Ball Pythons do not need a large enclosure, they are not very active snakes. We recommend a 10-20 gallon tank (tub) for smaller juvenile snakes and a 30 gallon tank (tub) for adults. Ball Pythons are very good escape artist so a secure lid is required.
Substrate: We recommend using newspaper, aspen, or cypress mulch. You can use/buy other bedding that will work for Ball Pythons but we have found that these work best for us. Do not use cedar. Cedar oils are toxic to Ball Pythons and can lead to deadly respiratory infections.
Furnishings: We recommend supplying some sort of hide box or secure area for your Ball Python to hide. You can buy plastic hide boxes online or use a small pot with an access hole. Ball Pythons also need a water dish, we recommend one that is big enough to fit their entire body into so they can soak during shed cycles. We change our water out with clean water weekly.
Temperature: 80 - 85 F (27 - 29 C) during the day, with a basking spot of around 90 F (32 C). Night time temperatures can fall to around 75 F (23 -24 C) as long as an area of 80 F is maintained. An under the tank heating pad designed for reptiles works well for providing the cage heat, with an incandescent bulb or ceramic heating element used to provide the basking temperatures. Never use hot rocks, and the bulb or heat element should be placed or screened off to prevent contact with the snake or burns may result.
Lighting: Ball Pythons are nocturnal, so have no special lighting requirements.
Feeding: Ball pythons can be fed exclusively mice or small to medium sized rats, and only need to be fed every week or two. Young snakes should be fed fuzzy mice every 5-7 days, older snakes should be fed increasingly larger prey and can go a longer without food. Ball Pythons can be picky eaters, it is not uncommon for Ball Pythons to go "off feed" for the winter time and refuse to eat. If this happens, don't panic and continue to try every week or so until they feed again.
View this information here online..
http://www.morphcapital.com/BP_Care.asp
Morph Capital, LLC Data
Morph Capital ,LLC - Exotic Ball Python Breeder - MorphCapital Jeremiah Kogon
http://www.morphcapital.com/
Thanks for stopping by Morph Capital, home to high quality exotic Ball Pythons Morphs. We specialize in the reproduction of color and pattern variations in Ball Pythons, (Python regius) such as Piebald, Albino, Spider, and Caramel Albino.
Here are some other places to visit...
Palm Divers - SCUBA Charter - Key Largo, FL
http://www.palmdivers.com/
Palm Divers SCUBA Charters in Key Largo, FL world class scuba diving and snorkeling trips daily in the diving capital of the world. Key Largo, Florida Keys A PADI Training Center
Jeremiah Kogon Professional Services
http://www.jeremiahkogon.com/
http://www.morphcapital.com/
Thanks for stopping by Morph Capital, home to high quality exotic Ball Pythons Morphs. We specialize in the reproduction of color and pattern variations in Ball Pythons, (Python regius) such as Piebald, Albino, Spider, and Caramel Albino.
Here are some other places to visit...
Palm Divers - SCUBA Charter - Key Largo, FL
http://www.palmdivers.com/
Palm Divers SCUBA Charters in Key Largo, FL world class scuba diving and snorkeling trips daily in the diving capital of the world. Key Largo, Florida Keys A PADI Training Center
Jeremiah Kogon Professional Services
http://www.jeremiahkogon.com/
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